Fix the car by its chassis, never its paint: use the car's own base screw if it has one, otherwise a removable pad or museum putty under the baseplate. A loose car in a case slides when the case is moved, rolls to one end, and on a wall can tip and chip its mirrors against the glass. Every method below is reversible - glue is the one thing not to use.
The options
| Method | Holds | Removable? | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| The car's own base screw | Firmest | Yes | Only cars sold screwed to a base have one |
| Double-sided pad under the chassis | Firm | Yes, with care | Keep it off painted surfaces |
| Museum putty or gel | Good | Yes | Can leave a light film; softens in heat |
| Clear thread around the axles | Moderate | Yes | Visible up close; can mark soft tyres if pulled tight |
| Glue | Permanent | No | Damages the car and its value - don't |
1. Use the base screw if there is one
Many premium 1:64 cars come screwed to a plastic display base. That screw goes into a threaded post in the chassis, and it is the most secure fixing there is - it was designed for exactly this. If your case has a slot or hole in its floor, take the car off its base (how-to in getting a diecast car off its base) and put the same screw through the floor instead. Don't overtighten: snug is enough, and a stripped post can't be fixed.
2. Removable pads under the chassis
For cars without a screw, a small double-sided pad between the baseplate and the case floor holds well. Two rules:
- Chassis only. The baseplate is unpainted metal or plastic; the body is paint and printed tampos, which a pad can lift.
- Remove by twisting, not pulling. Rotate the car gently to shear the pad, or slide dental floss underneath to cut through it.
3. Museum putty
Museum putty is made to stop ornaments moving in earthquakes, and a pea-sized piece under each end of the chassis holds a 1:64 car well. It stays removable, but it can leave a faint film and softens in a hot room. To lift residue, roll a fresh ball of putty over it. More on stopping cars moving in protecting diecast in an earthquake.
4. Thread tie-downs
Clear thread looped around the axles and through the case floor is how many boxed models are held in shipping. It works, but it is visible up close and can mark soft rubber tyres if pulled tight. Best as a backup on a heavy car rather than the main fixing.
Line it up first
Before fixing anything, set the car where it will be seen: parallel to the front glass, centred, wheels straight. It is much easier to get the angle right with the car loose than to shift it once a pad has grabbed. If the case is going on a wall, fix the car before hanging the case - see how to hang a display case on the wall.
FAQ
How do you keep a diecast car from moving in a display case?
Fix it by the chassis: the car's own base screw if it has one, otherwise a removable double-sided pad or a little museum putty under the baseplate.
Is museum putty safe for diecast cars?
Yes, under the chassis. It is removable but can leave a faint film and softens in heat; roll a fresh ball of putty over any residue to lift it.
Should I glue a diecast car into a case?
No. Glue is permanent, can mark the car and makes it worth less. Every reversible method holds a 1:64 car well enough.
How do I remove a car stuck down with a pad?
Twist it gently to shear the pad rather than pulling straight up, or slide dental floss underneath to cut through it.
Can I reuse the screw from the car's original base?
Yes, if the case floor has a slot or hole for it. It is the most secure fixing, because the car was designed to be held by it. Tighten until snug, no more.
The KP Design case: both fixings built in
The Infinity Garage 2nd Gen is designed around the first two methods: the car's own screw goes through a slot in the floor, or you use the 3M car pads included in the box - four of them, in two thicknesses. The magnetic logo plate lifts off to open the front, so the car goes in and comes out without tools. It is a wall case for one 1:64 car, with a key hook on the wall plate: hang your keys and it lights up for about 20 seconds, with a UV-free 4000K LED. Chamber size and every other specification are on the specs page. Midnight Black or Nimbus Grey, $44.90 early-bird pre-order price.